By Brienne

Riding Pants Plus Peplum

Friday - Friday already? Well, I haven't gotten to everything on my list... But that's ok. This may be my swan song. Oh, who am I kidding? I'm not done yet! It has been getting a little Lord of the Flies style around here... Luckily and just in time my magic-baking friend surprised my kids with these this morning. They were over the moon. 

This here is the Pippa Peplum (with a lot of modifications) and the Go-To Leggings with some equestrian accents. 

 

Historically, most of the kids clothing that I have made has been made using recycled threads. I like to do it that way. It's practical and intentional. I do love good fabric too, though. And it was a treat to use something so modern and spunky.  All of the fabrics are from here. If you're in Minnesota, it's worth the trip. The place is a bit untamed, fabric crammed everywhere and often there is no fiber content on the bolts... You cut your own yardage. The notion buckets go on forever!

The leggings are made out of a heavy weight knit and are accented using the same fabric hat I used for this getup. I used this tutorial to make the patches for the pants except I changed the size of the patches. I also cut the patches in half so that I could sew them in while I was sewing up the seam of the pants. The alternative is to hand stitch them on after the pants have been assembled. I think that it looks fine this way though too. The patches were quick to add and are well worth the effort. I love these pants and (squeal) the girl likes them too!

The top is the Pippa Peplum. It's a very sweet, quick pattern but I couldn't help but monkey it up. I added long sleeves, cut the skirt in one piece instead of two and added a traditional neckband instead of using the facings. The neck was too loose for us but that may have been a result of this wacky fabric. I used elastic thread in the bobbin as suggested. I also took almost 2 inches off of the length of the skirt but again, I think that I ended up needing to do this because of the weird, slippery fabric. 

I had planned to add an exposed zipper, like on the Ethereal Dress that I made. But the fabric and application just wasn't right. I still plan to hem or cuff the sleeves but she wanted to put it right on and I was happy to oblige. I expect both of these pieces to get worn a lot. Win! 

Again, the lighting leaves something to be desired but it's just too cold still to go out into the light without a snowsuit on. Here's a picture of the fabric that I think more accurately represents the colors. 


 

My Valentine: Heart Shirt and Color Blocked Pants

My kids are pretty fascinated with anatomy these days. And me too. When I was pregnant and in college for the late-to-bloom, I had the opportunity to take a course called something like "The Biology of Women." As part of that class I gave an oral presentation on birth and babies. The material was totally engaging to me (having given birth not long before and about to give birth again - my kids are 16 months apart). Anyway I'm excited that my kids are interested in systems and anatomy too now. There's so much to learn! 

We love this book. And this app actually... 

I love anatomical sketches. And I love to put them on clothing. I've patched the front leg panel of my husband's work pants with an iron-on tibia. I've added anatomical sketches of horses and human ribs to my kids' clothes before too. Usually the lion's share of the labor for these sketches falls on my husband and he's happy to oblige. I was way excited to make some heart-sketch clothes this month in honor of Valentine's Day and was floored when I saw his drawing - too cool. 

This, of course, is another Flashback Tee. I monkeyed with the sleeves to make it into a raglan top. I used the size 4 but added 3 inches to the length. You can't really tell but I also curved the hem in the front and back to give it sort of a baseball jersey look. 

I made another pair of Seraphic Pants from Figgy's new pattern lineup - super love. What a great shape and I adore the pocket detail. This time I traced a size 3 with a size 4 length. Both of the fabrics are heavier weight knits that I got from my all time favorite brick and mortar fabric shop. 

Unfortunately, the weather outside is still arctic. We are getting out to play but not so much to take pictures. I wish that you could see the greens - the shades are all a bit different. The "white" part of shirt is actually a very light minty green that accents the print on the shirt well I think. 

Meanwhile, all decorum has been lost. The cupboards are bare (no time for grocery shopping!) but I think that the kids are enjoying the independence that this week has afforded them. Yesterday I emerged from the sewing room to find them doing this - it's her mattress. They carried it into the living room and hid underneath the sheets. Eek. 
I'm trying to tackle some more pressing items on the list - another pair of leggings and a peplum top I hope with an exposed zipper. My son's health has derailed my progress temporarily (he's fine, just a virus but is needing some extra care) I still hope to bang out a couple more things by week's end. 

What's next on your list?

Dancy Duds

  I feel like these kind of garments are the ones that never quite make it into picture. Simple, not all that colorful and, in this case, snapped up by the wearer before they were even finished. 

I've been having a bit of sewer's block - a few things begun, nothing finished. Late last night, when the family was finally stowed, I picked a couple of the easiest things on my list: leggings plus a "warm sleever." But first, I printed this crown off and cut it out. I've been wanting to make some accessories for the littles this week but haven't gotten that idea off of the ground yet and this lovely little thing is tiding me over. 

I've been trying to figure out how to keep my daughter warm in dresses and tights, while respecting her autonomy and independence clothing-wise... This fabric was so soft and stretchy but heavier than a tights-weight. And I remembered that the Go-To Leggings pattern has an attached skirt option. 

The top is take two. This time, though, I used the Flasback Tee as a base and left the top short. I added two inches of swingy width (like in the high low top) to the side seam. I added an inch to the hem line of the under layer and I subracted  an inch from the mesh overlayer. I added two inches to the fold side of the pattern - this made for four inches of gathering space.  I used elastic thread in the bobbin to gather the neck pieces of the overlayer.

I had planned to add extra long cuffs to the sleeves like in this top and I was going to add stirrup cuffs to the pants too but my daughter grabbed the stuff right out of the sewing machine and put it on before the threads were clipped. I did not want to disturb the magic of that so I am letting it fly. The hems are all raw, my preferred look and especially for this fabric. I LOVE the layers and can see making a couple more of this combo. 

I actually made her a fleece pair of leggings to go over this pair but under the skirt. I think that she would comply with that idea - still having a skirt on but some warm pants too. The fleece was not stretchy enough though (oops) and they are way too tight. I'd like to try that again, adding some width to the legs this time.

I'm working on some clothes for my son now using oil pastel drawings that my husband made. I'm super excited about them. Sewing block banished for now I think... 

How's your week going?

Kids Clothes Week In Progress

 

 

Nothing finished here today except several loads of laundry, but there are things in the works. I've been cutting out feathers all day by the pellet stove; working out a clever idea for the boy dreamed up by a good friend. 

Blocking some knits. 

And casting on others. All the while laundering and staring at some fabric. Icy roads kept us out of town a bit longer this weekend then we expected. As a result, I didn't get started on the sewing as planned. And the kids are beat after having been stuck in the car for two days while we skated our way home on the subzero (sub forty below zero F ), icy roads.

For some reason the heater is not working in the sewing space. It's winter coat weather in there and pretty much everywhere else in this old house. But tonight's the night. My husband has promised to make dinner and I've got my down jacket and winter boots ready for sewing in - I will not be detoured!!

Joining in with the Small Things readers and knitters today. 

 

Flashback Hack: Boxy Boy Whale Tee

I'm liking the looser, slouchier shapes these days. Stylish - but also very smart layering wear. And, I had this sweet whale print that was destined to be for my boy but the print was larger than I was expecting. I needed to improvise a top that wouldn't squish it. You know what's coming - another Flashback Hack. This is the last one for awhile - I promise. 

 

I added two inches to the front and back pattern pieces and left the arms the same. I hacked apart the back a bit too in order to break up the bright white a bit. He does seem to groove on the bigger shape and I like the look too. Next time, I might make the sleeves bigger to up the slouch factor but I like these for now. 

The top is shown here with a pair of plaid wool skinnies  that I had made for an earlier post over on the KCW blog. This is actually the third pair of these that I've made, each time with a knit, which made the pocket sewing quick and easy. I just left the edges of the pockets raw - no pressing or turning. This kept the corners nice and crisp and the pockets end up a bit bigger this way, which I like for boys pants. The others that I've made with this pattern can be found here. This wool doesn't have much if any stretch so we will see how they hold up (the pattern calls for a fabric with a bit of stretch). They made it through some risky moves on the slide. That bodes well, I think . Next I've got some knits coming off of the needles, I think. What are you working on?

Joining in with Nicole at Frontier Dreams today, go check out her beautiful boy sweater project. Oh the cables!!

Re-imagining the Recess Raglan

Does she look like she's shrugging? She is. She's wondering what to do about this poor place we're dwelling in. As the arctic wind whips outside and as she reflects on last summer's frequent, searing winds - she worries a bit and she gathers that worry into her shoulders and tucks them in, up under her hood. 

I love the Flashback Tee. This you know. When I started to colorblock it though, I didn't like the way it looked with the curvy arm lines. I wanted the angles, like a raglan tee. You can make your Flashback into a raglan if you like. I used this clever tutorial. It works great. You get the skinny of the Flashback Tee plus the nice lines of a raglan and the speed, oh the speed! The straight lines in the ralan sew are even quicker than the curved ones:)

Then, sometime last year, I discovered that See Kate Sew had made a raglan tee pattern and I love that one too. Awhile ago, I saw this pin and I have been dreaming about this sweet, simple little tee dress ever since. Here is the result...

Road tested...

And this is how we did it...

First, (like the Flashback Hack) trace your pattern pieces onto the middle of the paper. We're going to add width, so you'll need space. I was making a size three but I wanted it to end up dress length, so I traced the size three width and the size five length.**See the note below about the hem length before cutting into your fabric.

Add two inches on the side opposite the fold line. Repeat this for both the front and the back pieces. 

Cut out a front, back, and two arms using your hacked pattern pieces and the standard arms for the size you're making. I found these arms to be quite generous - make sure to measure for the proper fit. Next time I think I'll go down a size. 

Now we're going to cut out two pieces to gather and layer over the front and back. This is where this little how-to goes a bit whacko... It would be best if you chose to use a knit with a knit for this purpose. However, I couldn't resist the forbidden fruit that results from a knit/woven hybrid and insisted on chopping up a treasured piece of Phoebe Wahl's fabric from Spoonflower. This lead to all sorts of private self-shaming because the finishing was odd and non-traditional.

Ahem, and anyway, here is how you cut out the contrast pieces - be they of the right sort or the wrong. 

Place the pattern's fold side (both the front and back pieces) some distance away from the fold. I put them 3/4's of an inch away from the fold to make an extra 1.5 inches for gathering - WIMPY! WIMPY! I think that it would have been nicer to have more swing. Yank on your fabric, think about the weight and the drape. Decide how much you want it to gather... Alternatively, you could MAKE a pattern piece for this purpose by tracing the front and back again, adding the two inch width and then adding some width at the fold line. 

When you go to cut these new pieces out, (one piece for the front and one for the back) you'll need to fudge in the neck and the bottom to match the existing cut lines. 

Hem the contrast layer - if you like. If you're using a knit fabric for this layer, you could leave the bottom edge raw but if you do that, then cut it shorter than the base layer so that the base layer can peek out. If you're using a woven, though, like I did - hem the bottom. I folded over the raw edge once by a half an inch and then a half an inch again and stitched it down. 

Now we'll need to gather the neck piece on the top layer (the layer that you added the extra width to on the fold line) to match the neck of the base layer. If you were using a knit fabric, you could do this by using elastic thread in your bobbin. 

After this step is complete, the sewing is child's play. The only difference is that you'll be sewing together a couple of layers of fronts and backs instead of just the one. Pin the front base layer plus the front contrast layer right sides together with the sleeve piece, stitch and so on. I did everything the same way as I would have using the original pattern, just remembering to include the extra layer of fabric. I topstitched the sleeves using a straight stitch - which is, I believe, another knits no-no... But it's holding up so far (sheepish grin). 

**One consideration - the hem. I left it raw on the under layer but if you want to hem it and if you want it to peek out from under the top layer, you'll need to do some figuring in the cutting stage.

Honestly, there's a lot about this dress that I'm not that thrilled about. But I loved both the fabrics and I'm comforted by the idea that I'm just practicing. And I'm working in the gap:) More on that idea over here. 

I wish that I had used a sheer overlay, but I couldn't get my hands on anything that I liked. And I wish that it were gathered more. I don't like the fit - I think it's a bit too boxy. And I do not like the arms. I want them tighter (my foolishness is the reason for this, should have measured) BUT - the point was to make a dress that was comfy for playing in, good to layer and that helped me to work out a scheme for making a dress like that pin that I loved. It is warm - the bottom layer is a lovely double knit. If both the layers had been in that knit, it would be super cozy. Or it would be beautiful with a lacey handknit layer as the top piece - wouldn't that be gorgeous? 

Anyway, I'm going to try it again. And I wanted to share it here as a jumping off point. I think that some good could come of this. I just have to think on it a bit more... Any ideas? 

In the Sewing Room: With Kids

Like many moms, I became very interested in sewing when I was pregnant with my first baby (a boy). I sewed some then using quilting cotton that my mom had on hand. When he was a bit older, I heard about the Kids Clothes Week challenge and sewed a bit then too but I never posted pictures. The resulting garments were cute but not too practical - stiff and unyielding to the springy limbs of my new offspring.

As the online sewing community matured, I started to hear about sewing with knits. I experimented first on tricot gift bags that I got from a (relatively) local outdoor clothing store. The prints were happy and the fabrics were stretchy. Soon I was demanding whole afternoons, then Saturdays to spend sewing. Instead of spending one hour a day on sewing for my kids during the KCW, I was trying to eek out whole outfits to share throughout the week. 

Now, almost all of the clothes that my kids wear are made by me. Kids Clothes Week means that I'll spend as much time as I can bent over my sewing machine pumping out garments to get them through the rest of winter. But I don't want my kids to remember these marathon sewing weeks with sadness, so some planning has to go into their care for next week too. 

 Mostly, they'll be working alongside me. Housecleaning will be largely ignored and I hope to maintain an intentionality about how we spend time together both inside and outside the sewing room. 

Inside the sewing room, I've learned some tricks over the years. And we've developed some guidelines there that we hope will make the experience a happy one for all of us.

A few ways that my littles like to participate are: transferring markings from patterns with the tracing wheel, marking fabric with disappearing ink and taking out the bobbin and putting it back in.

They also spend a fair amount of time in my lap or sitting next to me while I sew. They like to push the reverse button on the machine to help with backtacking. My son also likes to play "red light, green light" with the sewing machine. This is how it works: he sits in my lap. When I come to a pin he calls, "red light" then he carefully pulls the pin out and puts it in the pincushion. When it's stowed, he calls, "green light" and I fire up the machine again.

When we're in the sewing room, anything goes in terms of crafty messes. Paint, beads, fabric swatches spread from corner to corner - it's alright in the sewing room. 

When it comes to picture taking, I find that the best time to do so is in the morning, not after a full day of sewing. And costume pieces ALWAYS help. We don't do many treats in our house typically, but picture time usually includes some chocolate. 

 

What are your tricks for getting your kids to help you craft?

How to Hack Your Flashback: Part II

Or... how to make your Flashback Tee into a Hi-Low top with some swing. It's has a modern shape and it layers well over dresses.

Ok, first trace your Flashback pattern onto the middle of the paper. We're going to add width so you'll need some space. Make a mark two inches away from the cut line on the side opposite the fold line on both the front and back pattern pieces. 

Now we're going to draw a diagonal line from the armpit to the mark that you made.  This will add some swing to your Flashback Tee. 
Repeat this step for both the front and the back pieces. 

Now lets add the curves for the hi-low effect. My favorite adult sewing pattern is Megan Nielsen's Briar. That top has a high curve in the front and a low curve in the back. For the Flashback hack, I wanted to mimic that shape.

For the back piece, draw a mark on the same side as the fold two inches below the existing bottom. This will be your center back and the middle of the low curve. 

I used my iron as a guide to trace a curved line. 
Make sure that the highest part of your curve terminates at the existing cut line. If it doesn't, the side seams won't match up and it will look sad. 

Now we're going to repeat this step on the front piece with the curve facing the opposite way - like a frown. 

For the front side, start at the side opposite the fold again and use your iron to trace a curved line that begins at the existing cut line (don't add a two inch drop here). Now, artistic preference is yours about the depth of the curve. For me, it depends on the purpose of the garment. I made one of these to go over Geranium dresses and tutus last fall and it was pretty short in the front. For those that are meant to be worn alone, though - I keep the curve modest. She's a tall three-year old and I used the 3T size without adding any length and was still able to hem it even with the curve and it worked fine. But do some figuring to find out if you'll need to add a half an inch or so to the overall length of the garment before you begin your alterations. 

Here is what the front looks like when it has been cut out. I used a thrifted women's turtleneck for this tee and ironed on an image that I found here.  The sewing is the same as in the original. I frequently leave the bottom, curved hem raw but if you choose to hem it as I did in this example and find it getting a bit wobbly, you could try using fusible hemming tape. 

And, drat! Sorry for the poor quality of the photos. My sewing space gets very little light:) Hope you get the basic idea though.

Other examples of this type of hack can be found here.  

 

Joining Frontier Dreams today for Keep Calm and Craft On. 

Tomorrow I'll draw a name for the hat giveaway. Please leave a comment over here if you'd like to be included!

Knit Pixie Hat and Daring Greatly

I'm just feeling so grateful for having had the opportunity to post over on the KCW. I'm sorry to keep blathering on about it but it's just been so fun. Are you going to do it this time? Never sewn? Wanna give it a go alongside a bunch of other enthusisasts doing it just for the fun and community of it? Join us! Will you? 

I'm joining the Small Things readers today to share what I'm reading and knitting. I'm almost through Brene Brown's second book. I haven't heard her TED talk, but I first heard of Ms. Brown on Krista Tippet's On Being (one of my go-to radio programs to listen to while I'm sewing) and I remember really liking the interview.

The book is less compelling to me, though I think that the ideas are really important. I do think about the book often. The last book that I read before this (well, listened to) was Sarah Napthali's Buddhism for Mothers, which I LOVED and would recommend for mothers who are choosing between the two - although the themes are certainly complimentary. I'll be that Brene Brown doesn't expect people to "like" her book either, that's not really the point. 

I've been wanting to make Hillary Frazier's Knit Pixie Bonnet for some time - actually the knitting portion has been complete for some time. But as is my practice I struggled with the Kitchener join and abandoned the sweet little thing. I finally got with it again today. Full Ravelry notes here. 

I think that I've discovered my new favorite time of day to take pictures. The winter sunsets are the best. 

Oh! And the dress! It's yet another version of the earlier one - this time with sleeves and without a ruffle per her request. 

 

I'm happy to be back knitting - I've got so many projects planned. Suddenly winter is seeming too short! I better keep that under wraps, though. Last year we had a heavy snow in May:(

What are you stitching on these days?

Thanks to Small Things for providing a space to share. 

And don't forget to enter a comment to be entered in the giveaway from Monday's post!!

 

How to Hack Your Flashback: Part I

 

The pattern that I have used more than any other pattern is Made by Rae's Flashback Tee. When I was first learning to sew (am still definitely learning) and to sew with knits, I tried this pattern. Because of the high quality and versatility of the pattern, I succeeded in hacking together a couple of t shirts for my son. And they went together so quickly that I didn't have to dwell in the discomfort that early sewing with knits can be. They allowed me to zip along, experimenting and practicing while creating something both totally practical and totally upcycleable. I was in love. 

I'm getting a bit braver now. But I still find myself returning to this pattern time and again, though now I tend to want to monkey with it a bit - just for fun. My latest experiment with the pattern was to make it into an empire-waist dress for my daughter. She prefers dresses to pants and I was scrambling to figure out how to make one that made sense within the confines of these freezing temperatures. 

This Spoonflower fabric by Hey Tangerine was nice and heavy. It seemed like a good fit for a winter dress. It used to be called interlock but it doesn't say that anymore - still it feels like an interlock and it sews up like that too. Totally cozy, totally easy to stitch on. 

 In terms of hacking the pattern: 

I used the bodice of a dress that I liked the fit of to estimate where the Flashback Tee pattern should be cut. I was making a size 2 and I ended up making the cuts on both the front and back pattern pieces about 2.5" below the armpits. See the black line on the pattern piece to the far left? 

I cut two skirt pieces on the fold that were each approximately twice as wide as the bodice piece is once it's unfolded. The bodice was aout 12" across, so I cut two skirt pieces out at 24" each. The skirt length was about 16". In retrospect, I wish that I'd have made it a bit longer.

I gathered each skirt piece and then attached them to the bodice BEFORE sewing up the side seams. I find that when you do this, you can make the gathering more even. 

I finished the dress just as I would a standard Flashback Tee, the only difference being that I made the neckband a half inch narrower than the pattern calls for because I wanted a daintier neckline. And I hemmed the sleeves instead of adding cuffs because I wanted another long-sleeve shirt to fit easily underneath the dress for warmth. Today she's wearing it with a high low top underneath and the fit is great!

Have you made other variations of this pattern? I'm hoping to do an A-line dress next with an exposed zipper...

Edited to add: Megan Nielsen has offered up an idea for easily gathering knit fabric by putting elastic thread on your bobbin. I think that her method would be the best way to gather your skirt pieces before adding them to the bodice in this case. Go check it out!

Thanks to Frontier Dreams for providing a space to share.

And don't forget to enter a comment to be entered in the giveaway from yesterday's post!!